THE BEAUTY OF HASTINGS
Hastings, East Sussex, UK
Get off-the-beaten-track to check out Brighton’s lesser known neighbour, Hastings. Delve into its galleries, explore its charming Old Town and enjoy pop-up events - you’ll find the fishing town on the southeast coast has personality in spades.
The Hastings Pier
Hastings Pier has recently been refurbished to its former glory. When the elegant pier first opened in 1872, on the site of a submerged prehistoric forest, it was the pride and joy of the town. A place for leisure and pleasure, from its American bowling alley to its joy wheel - a popular amusement ride at the time which involved being spun round on a giant revolving disc.
In the 1960s and '70s, the pier staged some of Britain’s most famous musicians such as Jimi Hendrix and The Rolling Stones. The latest incarnation is set to be just as exciting, with a programme of events including live music, open air theatre, circus performances and food and drink fairs.
An emerging arts scene
Hastings has long attracted arty types, perhaps thanks to its edgy history of rum-smuggling pirates, and rugged scenery - from sea-splashed cliffs to crumbling castles. You can see local artists’ work in small galleries all around town.
Juxtaposed against the backdrop of the town’s medieval cinque port, there’s also modern art museum the Hastings Contemporary. Devoted to contemporary British art, exhibitions have featured work by influential portrait artist John Bratby and subversive duo, brothers Jake and Dinos Chapman – all hailing from Hastings.
Boutique hotels and places to stay
From a world travel-themed townhouse to a printworks repurposed as a hip hideaway, Hastings has characterful accommodation by the bucket load.
And if you want something more traditional, you’ll find welcoming B&Bs aplenty. You can’t go wrong with The Swan House, an elegantly furnished 15th-century guesthouse in a charmed setting.
Weird, but wonderful festivals
Hastings has a calendar full of eccentric celebrations. There’s Pirate Day during the summer, where you’ll find the whole town – pets included – doing their best Captain Jack Sparrow impressions.
Jack in the Green, meanwhile, is focused around a gloriously green May Day parade of 'the Jack', a symbolic representation of spring.
The characterful Old Town
Until the 1800s, Hastings was the Old Town. Its boundaries now extend well beyond George Street, but this historic enclave remains the heart and soul of the town. Its storied alleyways, or ‘twittens’, will lead you to independent shops, galleries and guest houses galore.
For a glimpse back in time, visit HG Hendy & Co Home Store. The building’s been sensitively stripped back to its beginnings, with candles, open fires and staff in period costume adding to the air of nostalgia. The shop specialises in utilitarian homeware, including an incredible array of brushes and brooms.
Insta-incredible black fishing-net huts
These distinctive tall wooden huts, many of which are protected for their heritage, line The Stade, home to the largest beach-launched fishing fleet in Britain. Made to store fishing nets, they are tarred black to protect them from the ferocity of the elements on this unruly stretch of coastline.
Buy the catch of the day from the sheds behind the net huts (or along Rockanore Road) or spend time capturing the photogenic seafront scene for your Instagram followers.
The 'best fish and chips in the world'
Blue Dolphin’s fish and chips are surely the most perfect version of this British staple. Best enjoyed doused in vinegar, sitting on the pebble beach with wind whipping at your hair.
However there's more to Hastings than fish and chips. Get into the town early and treat yourself to a slap-up breakfast at Pelican Diner, or head straight to Di Pola for a proper ice cream (hey, you're on holiday!)
When lunchtime rolls around, grab a green curry and some 'crispy treats' from the phenomenally good value Eem Sabai , a teeny Thai takeaway attached to the shopping centre. Further east, Radley's Bar & Bistro gets kudos for its 100% gluten-free menu.
For dinner, you're spoilt for choice, particularly if you're pescatarian. Tuck in to the catch of the day at White's Seafood and Steak Bar, or grab a punnet of cockles and prawns straight from one of the fisherman's huts and have an alfresco sunset supper on the beach. If you're up for something really special, go for Boulevard Bookshop and Thai Cafe. Second-hand bookshop by day, incredible family-run BYOB Thai restaurant by night, you're free to browse the bookshelves while your dreamy two-course meal is cooked up.
Also worth a visit is Farmyard, situated in the St Leonard's area. The restaurant and natural wine bar focuses on local and sustainable produce, specialising in fresh fish and tapas. Look out for different offers on different days of the week, or swing by on Sunday for a fantastic Sunday roast.
